Are you struggling to work efficiently with lash rows?

As lash artists we work with lash rows daily, whether you create a tidy and sharp top line or wispies.

Two completely different sets, but both required me to work in lash rows.

Quality work requires you to be able to identify them properly.

But how to do that in wispy sets?

1. Start with the upper layer first. I usually apply my spikes on the upper layer first, it’s easier to identify and achieve symmetry on both eyes.

Upper layer is the one closest to the eyelid and easiest to identify and apply lashes to.

So if I had a client come in with such lashes, this is how I would categorise her upper layer.

For wispies, that's the layer where I'd apply spikes.

2. Use longer lengths on the upper layer and shorter lengths on the lower layers. Choice of lengths depends on your client’s eyes:

- how much space does you client have between her eyelid and her eyebrow

- how deep set are their eyes

- what's your client's preference?

... and choice of length difference between upper and lower bottom depends on the effect that you want to achieve :)

The bigger the extensions length difference between upper and lower row, the stronger or wispier the effect is

For example anime effect lashes use a bigger length difference between upper and lower lash row (3+mm).

A more daily wispy set meant for everyday wear and clients uses smaller length difference between upper and lower lash rows (2-3mm)

3. Do not tape your layers beforehand - Some artists use tape to separate lash rows from each other for easier work. I do not believe in this method, because it doesn’t let you see the overall lash distribution over the eyelid. Your work might end up being unsymmetrical and wonky. Instead learn how to isolate properly without having to glue other lashes out of the way. Eventually it will be faster than taping/untaping lashes constantly and your final result will be better.

(please bear with my chicken handwriting on photos, I promise to try better over time ❤️)

I'm not saying it's the wrong method! If you want to achieve a very cohesive and tidy final look, I recommend you to try and work with all layers visible at the same time. That's how I do it :)

And yes, even wispies have to be done in good technique to look exceptional :)

Let me know what you think of this post and become a member of A LASH to get short blog posts, tips and advice like this on the regular! ❤️